Hodh Ech Chargui

Hodh Ech Chargui is Mauritania's largest region, in the far south-east on the Mali border. Its capital is Néma.

Its jewel is **Oualata**, a 13th-century town and the fourth Mauritanian site on the UNESCO list. What sets it apart is its decoration: the women of the town paint red and white geometric motifs on house façades and interiors, in a tradition passed from generation to generation. There are also manuscript libraries and a museum.

Oualata was a major stage on the caravan route between Timbuktu and North Africa; Ibn Battuta crossed it in 1352 and left a description.

**Néma** marks the end of the Route de l'Espoir from Nouakchott — nearly 1,200 km. **Bassikounou** and **Amourj** are two border towns in herding country.

The journey to Oualata is long and needs planning: at least four days there and back from Nouakchott.